The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) requires textiles to consist of at least 70% certified organic fibers and to meet strict environmental and social criteria throughout the entire supply chain. If the fiber content is high enough, the product may be labeled as “organic.” The currently valid version is GOTS 7.0, which sets binding requirements for fiber content, due diligence processes, and detailed social and environmental criteria.
Three key points upfront:
- Labeling levels: “made with x % organic materials” (at least 70% organic fibers) and “organic” (at least 95% organic fibers)
- Chemical rule: Only approved inputs that have been reviewed via a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) may be used
- ILO social criteria: Freedom of association, prohibition of forced and child labor, and prohibition of discrimination are mandatory at all processing stages
Key Findings
The Global Organic Textile Standard requires at least 70% certified organic fibers, approved chemical inputs, functional wastewater treatment in wet processing, and compliance with the ILO core standards at every stage of the supply chain.
| Topic | Details |
|---|---|
| Labeling levels and fiber content | “organic” from ≥ 95%, “made with” from ≥ 70% organic fibers; percentage mandatory at the lower level. |
| Chemical rule | Only MSDS-reviewed, approved inputs allowed; inventory checks and annual inspections ensure compliance. |
| Wastewater requirement | Wet processing facilities need functional wastewater treatment before discharge into surface waters. |
| ILO social criteria | Freedom of association, prohibition of forced and child labor, prohibition of discrimination, and pay gap analysis are mandatory. |
| Certification logic | Scope Certificate (SC) for the facility, Transaction Certificate (TC) for each delivery; both must be current. |
Table of Contents
- What do the GOTS criteria mean for labeling levels and fiber content?
- Which fibers, product types, and production stages does GOTS cover?
- How does GOTS regulate chemical additives, prohibitions, and MSDS review?
- What environmental management obligations apply to processing facilities?
- What do the GOTS social criteria specifically require?
- How does GOTS certification work, and what certificates are there?
- What information must be on the GOTS label?
- When are residue tests carried out, and what happens in case of violations?
- How does a Central European brand practically implement the GOTS criteria?
- GOTS as a basis for credible sustainability communication
- Sources
- FAQ
What do the GOTS criteria mean for labeling levels and fiber content?
GOTS 7.0 defines two main levels based exclusively on the certified organic fiber content:
| Labeling level | Minimum organic fiber content | Allowed non-organic content | Labeling |
|---|---|---|---|
| “organic” | at least 95% | up to 5% | “organic” without percentage |
| “made with x % organic materials” | at least 70% to less than 95% | up to 30% | percentage mandatory |
Fibers that are still “in conversion” to organic farming can also be used, but must be declared as such. The German consumer protection association confirms: Labeling is possible from 70% organic fiber content; only from ≥ 95% can “Organic” appear without a percentage.
Every product bearing the GOTS mark must also state the name of the responsible certification body as well as the license number. Without this information, use of the logo is not permitted.
Pro tip: Simply enter the license number on the GOTS website when shopping. This allows you to check in seconds whether the certificate is still valid.
Which fibers, product types, and production stages does GOTS cover?
GOTS covers all textile products made from natural fibers. These include:
- Cotton, wool, linen, silk, and other natural fibers of certified organic quality (kbA/kbT)
- Fibers “in conversion” to organic farming, provided they are declared accordingly
- Approved supplementary fibers (e.g., recycled synthetic fibers) up to a defined percentage that does not exceed the labeling level
Product categories include all types of clothing, home textiles, mattress covers, textile toys, and food-contact textiles. Intermediate-stage yarns and fabrics are also covered by the standard, provided they are further processed.
Materials such as asbestos, PVC, and other chlorinated plastics are prohibited in accessories and ingredients. For manufacturers: Every stage of the supply chain that touches the material, i.e., spinning, weaving, dyeing, and garment manufacturing, must present a valid GOTS certificate. If one stage is missing, the final product loses its GOTS compliance. More on sustainable material options is offered in the Beachbodyz guide to sustainable fabrics.
How does GOTS regulate chemical additives, prohibitions, and MSDS review?
The basic principle is: no hazardous input, no hazardous output. Only additives that have passed the GOTS approval process may be used in certified facilities.
Requirements for chemical suppliers and facilities:
- Submission of a complete Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for every substance used
- If necessary, additional toxicological reports or independent laboratory analyses that certifiers can request
- Proof of an in-house environmental management system at the chemical supplier
- Annual on-site inspections and inventory checks by the certification body
Typical prohibitions concern heavy metals, certain biocides, formaldehyde above defined limit values, and chlorinated plastics in accessories. The GOTS Standard PDF Version 6.0 contains the complete technical list of limit values and prohibitions.
| Input category | Mandatory document | Control mechanism |
|---|---|---|
| Dyes and pigments | MSDS, laboratory analysis if applicable | Annual inspection, inventory check |
| Auxiliary substances (plasticizers, fixatives) | MSDS | Invoice and delivery note review |
| Accessories and ingredients | Material declaration, manufacturer proof | Spot testing in case of suspicion |
| Packaging materials | Declaration | Document review |
In case of suspected residues, auditors take samples and forward them to accredited laboratories. GOTS's environmental criteria page describes the control principle as an integrated quality system: hazardous substances are excluded at the input stage, not just tested at the final product.
What environmental management obligations apply to processing facilities?
Facilities that perform wet processing, i.e., dyeing, bleaching, or printing processes, are subject to the strictest environmental requirements of the standard. GOTS requires a written environmental and chemical policy as well as active monitoring of the following parameters:
- Water consumption per production unit with documented measured values
- Energy consumption and measures to reduce it
- Waste quantities, disposal routes, and recycling rates
- Chemical use with quantity specifications and batch traceability
Wastewater treatment is not optional for wet processing. Facilities must either operate their own functional sewage treatment plant or prove that the wastewater is treated externally before discharge into surface waters. Records of sludge disposal are also mandatory.
Risk-based monitoring means: facilities with high chemical use are inspected more frequently and intensively than those with a low risk profile. Emission reduction and waste prevention are not recommendations, but part of the annual audit program.
What do the GOTS social criteria specifically require?
The GOTS social criteria are based entirely on the ILO core standards and apply to all certified processing stages. GOTS 7.0 has significantly tightened the requirements for risk-based due diligence processes according to the UN Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights.
Specific obligations:
- Freedom of association: Workers have the right to join or form trade unions
- Prohibition of forced labor: No withholding of identification documents, no debt bondage
- Prohibition of child labor: Minimum age according to the ILO Convention; protective measures for minors under 18 years
- Prohibition of discrimination: Equal treatment regardless of gender, origin, or religion
- Wage policy: Compliance with national minimum wages or industry guidelines; facilities must conduct a pay gap analysis and present a plan to close it
- Working hours: Compliance with legal maximum limits; overtime only voluntarily and with a premium
- Maternity protection and protection of vulnerable groups: Documented measures required
GOTS 7.0 also requires a six-step due diligence process: risk identification, measures planning, implementation, monitoring, communication, and remediation. This process must be anchored in the management system.
Pro tip: The OECD Guidelines for Multinational Enterprises and the UN Guiding Principles provide concrete templates for risk-based due diligence documentation. Adopting this structure fulfills the GOTS 7.0 requirements and simultaneously positions a company well for the German Supply Chain Due Diligence Act.
Practical tips on fair production in the EU can also be found in the Beachbodyz post on Fashion “Made in Europe”.
How does GOTS certification work, and what certificates are there?
Certification is a multi-stage, continuous process. Every stage of the supply chain must remain certified; if one stage is missing, the final product loses its GOTS compliance.
Step-by-step process:
- Application to an approved certification body (Certification Body)
- Submission of all relevant documents: facility description, supplier list, chemical list, MSDS
- Initial on-site inspection by an accredited auditor
- Issuance of the facility certificate (Scope Certificate, SC): proves that a facility fundamentally operates in GOTS compliance
- Issuance of Transaction Certificates (TC): prove concrete deliveries between certified facilities
- Annual on-site audits and inventory checks; unannounced inspections are possible
Important distinction: The SC confirms the certification of a facility. The TC proves a specific transaction and is the decisive proof for retailers and further processors that a concrete delivery is GOTS-compliant.
Control methods include:
- Quantity reconciliation (mass balance): Purchased organic fibers must match delivered GOTS goods
- Book audits: Invoices, delivery notes, and inventory are reconciled
- Spot residue tests in case of suspected prohibited substances
- Unannounced inspections as a permanent part of monitoring; in case of deviations, corrective measures are typically required to be submitted and verified within short timeframes
The TÜV NORD service description for GOTS certification describes this process as a continuous obligation, not a one-time act.
What information must be on the GOTS label?
Mandatory information when using the GOTS mark:
- Labeling level: “organic” or “made with x % organic materials”
- GOTS logo in the prescribed form
- Name of the responsible certification body
- License number of the certified facility
For fibers “in conversion,” this note must explicitly appear on the label. Percentage specifications are mandatory for the “made with” level, but not permitted for “organic,” as the content is by definition ≥ 95%.
Consumer checklist:
- Check the GOTS logo and license number on the label
- Verify the license number on the GOTS website or through the certification body
- Request the Transaction Certificate (TC) from the retailer, which proves the concrete delivery
- View the manufacturer's Scope Certificate (SC) to confirm the certification level
Pro tip: A retailer that cannot or will not present a TC may not have one. The TC is the only proof that a specific delivery is actually GOTS-compliant.
When are residue tests carried out, and what happens in case of violations?
GOTS relies on a risk-based testing strategy. Routine residue tests for every product are not planned; samples are taken specifically when there is suspicion of the use of prohibited substances or when the risk profile of a facility justifies more intensive monitoring.
Limit values for residues in intermediate and final products are defined in the standard. Trace amounts of unavoidable contamination can be tolerated, provided they do not exceed the defined limit values.
| Test item | Trigger for the test | Possible sanction / correction period |
|---|---|---|
| Residues in final products | Suspicion, risk profile, spot test | Withdrawal of certificate, corrective measures |
| Chemical use in the facility | Annual inspection, inventory check | Remediation period, follow-up audit |
| Wastewater quality | Annual inspection, complaints | Facility suspension until remediation |
| Documentation gaps | Every inspection | Corrective measures, suspension if necessary |
In case of discovered prohibited substances, the following applies:
- Immediate reporting obligation to the certification body
- Documentation of the source and extent of contamination
- Submission of a corrective action plan within the deadline set by the certification body
- Follow-up audit to verify the measures
How does a Central European brand practically implement the GOTS criteria?
A practical example: A sustainably produced streetwear brand in Germany has certified all relevant stages of the supply chain, from the spinning mill to the dye house and garment manufacturing. The most important operational measures:
- Establishment of a complete input list of all chemicals used, with the corresponding MSDS documents
- Installation of an external wastewater treatment system for the wet processing stage
- Monthly payroll audits to ensure compliance with ILO wage requirements
- Regular supplier audits with documented results
Documents auditors want to see on-site:
- Complete accounting records: incoming invoices for organic fibers, delivery notes, inventory lists
- MSDS for all chemicals and auxiliary substances used
- Current Transaction Certificates (TC) and Scope Certificates (SC) for all suppliers
- Quantity reconciliation: organic fibers purchased vs. GOTS goods produced and shipped
- Records of water consumption, wastewater treatment, and sludge disposal
- Payroll records and time sheets
Common weaknesses in practice are incomplete supplier documentation and missing TCs for individual transactions. Both can be addressed with a central document management system and quarterly supplier assessments.
Pro tip: Before the initial audit, an internal pre-audit using the official GOTS checklist is recommended. For unannounced inspections, the rule is: All documents must be readily available at all times, not just for the annual audit.
GOTS as a basis for credible sustainability communication
For a sustainable streetwear brand, GOTS is not an optional quality feature. It is the only standard that bindingly checks and documents environmental and social criteria throughout the entire supply chain. Any brand that communicates sustainability needs exactly this level of verifiability.
The crucial difference from other textile labels lies in the chain logic. GOTS not only checks the final product for harmful substances but also certifies every facility that handles the material. This makes greenwashing structurally more difficult because every claim must be verifiable with a TC. OEKO-TEX signals product safety; GOTS certifies the entire sustainable life cycle of an organic textile.
For communication with customers, the rule is: Transaction certificates may be presented upon request. Anyone who actively offers this signals transparency. Anyone who refuses it raises legitimate doubts.
Pro tip: Internal GOTS compliance can be ensured through three routines: quarterly supplier assessments with certificate checks, annual employee training on documentation requirements, and a well-maintained, always accessible audit history. Anyone who consistently implements these three points is also prepared for unannounced inspections.
Beachbodyz produces sustainable streetwear from organic cotton and recycled polyester, fairly made in the EU. All products are suitable for personalization and available in oversize cuts.
Sources
Key reference documents for manufacturers, retailers, and consumers:
- Environmental criteria - GOTS - Global Organic Textile Standard
- Fair clothing: What the labels mean | Verbraucherzentrale NRW
- TÜV NORD: GOTS certification service description
FAQ
What do the GOTS criteria require of producers?
Producers must use at least 70% certified organic fibers, provide MSDS for all chemical inputs, operate a functional wastewater treatment system for wet processing, and comply with the ILO core standards at every stage of the supply chain. Annual on-site audits by an approved certification body are mandatory.
What is the GOTS standard?
GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) is an international chain standard that bindingly regulates ecological and social requirements from fiber cultivation to garment manufacturing. The current version is Version 7.0.
Which is better: GOTS or OEKO-TEX?
The two standards pursue different goals. GOTS is a supply chain standard that checks cultivation, processing, and social criteria; OEKO-TEX primarily checks the final product for harmful substances. They complement each other but are not equivalently interchangeable.
What does the GOTS certificate promise?
GOTS guarantees that a textile product consists of a defined minimum share of certified organic fibers, was produced along the entire supply chain under controlled environmental and social conditions, and that all involved facilities can present valid certificates.
How can you check a GOTS certificate?
The license number on the label can be verified directly on the GOTS website. In addition, a Transaction Certificate (TC) can be requested from the retailer, which documents the specific delivery.
